Thurso to Durness

The Durness Bus service 803 runs from Thurso to Durness on Saturdays, and as far as Tongue on Tuesdays and Thursdays. If you wish to continue to Durness on Tuesdays and Thursdays, their Dial A Bus service can be pre-booked to meet the bus.

The bus winds its way along the remote north coast, passing through small villages, mountains and moorland, and enjoying sea views in places. The villages of Bettyhill, Tongue and Durness are the most interesting for visitors and are also popular with motorists travelling on the North Coast 500.

We enjoyed a holiday in Bettyhill, had a pleasant stop in Tongue but unfortunately didn't have time to stop in Durness as we passed through.

Between Thurso and Bettyhill look out for the Dounreay nuclear power research complex which is in the process of being decommissioned.

Also spot the Mackay Country landmark on the left which marks an area with one of the lowest population densities in Western Europe. It is at the same point as the Welcome to the County of Sutherland sign, as you leave Caithness behind.

The service runs once in either direction, originating in the west. Therefore it is not possible to do as a day trip from Thurso. You would need to stay in Bettyhill, Tongue or Durness.

As this service only runs on selected days of the week, if you plan to return to Thurso you may find yourself spending more time than you need in an area. This may be fine if you are content with a slow pace and fully exploring the village.

As an alternative, instead of returning to Thurso there is the option of travelling from Durness to Inverness or from Tongue to Lairg on Wednesdays (guide available soon) and onwards by train to Inverness.

Route: Thurso - Bettyhill - Tongue - Durness

Total trip length: 2 hours 20 minutes

Bettyhill

Tongue

Durness

Bettyhill: Where to visit

STRATHNAVER MUSEUM

This is a very interesting museum where you could easily spend a few hours, as we did. It is located in the old Parish Church and is around 20 minutes' walk from the village.

It tells the history of the north west of Sutherland including Clan Mackay and the 19th century Highland Clearances.

FARR BAY BEACH

On your way to the museum you will pass the signposted footpath to the beach at Farr Bay. This is a nice sandy beach though wrap up warm as we found it to be windy on every visit!

NORTH COAST LEISURE CENTRE

Warm up with a trip to the swimming pool, sauna and spa.

VILLAGE AND HARBOUR WALK

Stroll around the village for views over Farr Bay, and down to the harbour for beautiful views across to the sandy beach at Torrisdale Bay.

Accommodation and Places to eat

Walking distances to accommodation given from the nearest bus stop.

ACCOMMODATION

Bettyhill Hotel (alight at stop 'Bettyhill, Post Office')

Reviews: 4.6 on Google, 4.6 on TripAdvisor

Farr Bay Inn (alight at stop 'Bettyhill, opposite Tourist Information')

Reviews: 4.5 on Google, 4.3 on TripAdvisor

PLACES TO EAT

Bettyhill Hotel

Reviews including accommodation: 4.6 on Google, 4.6 on TripAdvisor

The Store Cafe, Bistro & Bar

We enjoyed drinks and snacks here.

Reviews: 4.8 on Google, 4.8 on TripAdvisor

Clachan Cafe

Reviews: 4.7 on Google, 4.3 on TripAdvisor

Tongue

Photo credit: “ScotlandSep15_71” by Richard Szwejkowski, CC BY-SA 2.0

Photo credit: “Tongue” by Rob Faulkner, CC BY 2.0

Where to visit

CASTLE VARRICH WALK

This is a ruined castle with impressive views over Kyle of Tongue, accessible via a footpath from the village.

Photo credit: “ScotlandSep15_76” by Richard Szwejkowski, CC BY-SA 2.0

ST ANDREW'S CHURCH

Look around this small Church of Scotland church which dates from 1680 and was built on the site of an even older church.

CEREAL BAKERY AND BOOKSHOP

As the name suggests, this is a bakery, bookshop and cafe which has top reviews.

Accommodation and Places to eat

Walking distances to accommodation given from the nearest bus stop.

ACCOMMODATION

Lundies House (446 foot/0.13 km from stop 'Tongue, opp Hotel')

Rooms include dinner, bed and breakfast. Packed lunches can also be ordered.

Reviews: 4.8 on Google, 4.9 on Tripadvisor

The Tongue Hotel (opposite stop 'Tongue, opp Hotel')

Reviews: 4.3 on Google, 4.5 on TripAdvisor

Ben Loyal Hotel (0.11 miles/0.17 km from stop 'Tongue, opp Hotel')

Reviews: 4.4 on Google, 4.3 on TripAdvisor

The Bothy B&B (0.17 miles/0.27 km from stop 'Tongue, opp Hotel')

Reviews: 5.0 on Google, 4.9 on TripAdvisor

PLACES TO EAT

The Tongue Hotel

Reviews including accommodation: 4.3 on Google, 4.5 on TripAdvisor

Ben Loyal Hotel (evenings only)

Reviews including accommodation: 4.4 on Google, 4.3 on TripAdvisor

Cereal Bakery & Bookshop

Reviews: 4.9 on Google

Durness: Where to visit

SANGO BAY

This popular sandy beach consists of three coves divided by rocks.

Photo credit: “Sango Sands at Durness” by Martin Stone, CC BY-SA 2.0

BALNAKEIL

Balnakeil Craft Village is around 15 minutes' walk from the centre of Durness. Here you will find local artists including galleries, paintings & prints, ceramics, woodwork, and glass work.

There is also a geology and archaeology exhibition at Durness Deep Time and the popular Cocoa Mountain Chocolatier.

Balnakeil Bay is a further 10 minutes' walk from the Craft Village with the ruined Balnakeil Church and sandy beach.

Photo credit: “Durness” by Graeme Churchard, CC BY 2.0

Photo credit: “Balnakeil Church” by Tom Parnell, CC BY-SA 2.0

JOHN LENNON MEMORIAL GARDEN

John Lennon spent childhood holidays in Sangomore in Durness. The Village Hall has created a small memorial garden. It is around 20 minutes' walk from the centre of Durness.

Opposite the memorial garden is the Durness Millennium Cairn. This small, modern cairn was built to commemorate the millennium.

Photo credit: “John Lennon memorial garden” by Ian Gratton, CC BY 2.0

SMOO CAVE

Probably the most popular attraction in Durness, this large seawater and freshwater cave is set in limestone cliffs is about 25 minutes' walk from Durness. It is accessible by foot down steep steps or by boat with Smoo Cave Tours.