Inverness to Durness

Durness is a small village on the north west coast, with the North Sea to the north and the Atlantic Ocean to the west. It is a popular stopping place for motorists travelling the North Coast 500.

It has lots of interest including stunning scenery, beaches, a craft village and caves. However, these are quite spread out so involves a fair bit of walking.

Unfortunately we didn't stop when driving through the village, as it was getting late and we were keen to reach our destination of Bettyhill. We intended to return but time ran away with us and we had underestimated the travelling times in the area. We hope to return next year.

The Durness Bus service 805 travels between Inverness and Durness six days a week. Pre-booking is recommended in summer.

It also stops in Ardgay and Lairg (both near the station and in the village), though it is not timed to connect with the trains that stop in these villages. See our guide to the Far North Line Halts for more details about Ardgay and Lairg.

The service runs once in either direction, originating in Durness. Therefore it is not possible to do as a day trip from Inverness. You would need to stay in Durness.

Instead of returning to Inverness, there is the option of travelling to Thurso on Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday. See our Guide to Thurso to Durness. From Thurso you can return to Inverness on the Far North Line or even travel to Orkney with NorthLink Ferries.

Route: Inverness - Bonar Bridge - Lairg - Rhiconich - Durness

Trip length: 3 hours 30 minutes

The journey

The coach leaves Inverness via the Kessock Bridge which divides the Beauly Firth and Moray Firth. From here it makes its way across the Black Isle before crossing the Cromarty Firth on the Cromarty Bridge.

The road now travels alongside the Cromarty Firth past Evanton, shortly after turning off the main road to start the cross country journey north.

Cromarty Firth from A9 near Ardullie Roundabout

The bus now climbs up in to the hills through farmland, crossing the River Averon via an attractive stone bridge. The road goes through Ardross, near to Ardross Castle where The Traitors is filmed.

Continuing to climb, the scenery becomes forests and mountains. Eventually the road starts to drop down to reach Ardgay, with stunning views over Dornoch Firth on the right. After the village of Argay, the road shortly reaches the village of Bonar Bridge which connects Kyle of Sutherland with the Dornoch Firth.

View of Kyle of Sutherland from Bonar Bridge

Departing Bonar Bridge, the bus travels alongside Kyle of Sutherland to Invershin. Look out for the railway line crossing the road by bridge. From here it continues north to Lairg, passing the train station before continuing to the village.

The River Shin comes into view on the left, opening up in to Loch Shin at Lairg. The bus continues alongside the loch its whole length of 17 miles to near Overscaig, mostly on single track road.

The road continues through the mountains, past Loch Merkland. Look out for the Mackay Country landmark next to the loch. This marks an area with one of the lowest population densities in Western Europe.

Continuing north, the road travels alongside Allt Ceann Locha on the left then Loch Stack and the River Laxford on the right.

At Laxford Bridge the bus detours south to Scourie before returning to Laxford Bridge to continue the journey north to Rhiconich, passing Loch Laxford on the left. At Rhiconich you have views of Loch Inchard. Here the bus detours again to Kinlochbervie before returning to Rhiconich to continue north.

Nearing Durness, the bus travels along the coastal inlet of Kyle of Durness with views over to the Cape Wrath peninsula before arriving shortly afterwards into Durness.

Durness: Where to visit

SANGO BAY

This popular sandy beach consists of three coves divided by rocks.

Photo credit: “Sango Sands at Durness” by Martin Stone, CC BY-SA 2.0

BALNAKEIL

Balnakeil Craft Village is around 15 minutes' walk from the centre of Durness. Here you will find local artists including galleries, paintings & prints, ceramics, woodwork, and glass work.

There is also a geology and archaeology exhibition at Durness Deep Time and the popular Cocoa Mountain Chocolatier.

Balnakeil Bay is a further 10 minutes' walk from the Craft Village with the ruined Balnakeil Church and sandy beach.

Photo credit: “Durness” by Graeme Churchard, CC BY 2.0

Photo credit: “Balnakeil Church” by Tom Parnell, CC BY-SA 2.0

JOHN LENNON MEMORIAL GARDEN

John Lennon spent childhood holidays in Sangomore in Durness. The Village Hall has created a small memorial garden. It is around 20 minutes' walk from the centre of Durness.

Opposite the memorial garden is the Durness Millennium Cairn. This small, modern cairn was built to commemorate the millennium.

Photo credit: “John Lennon memorial garden” by Ian Gratton, CC BY 2.0

SMOO CAVE

Probably the most popular attraction in Durness, this large seawater and freshwater cave is set in limestone cliffs is about 25 minutes' walk from Durness. It is accessible by foot down steep steps or by boat with Smoo Cave Tours.