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Inverness to the Black Isle


The Black Isle peninsula is one of our favourite areas in the Highlands. It has a peaceful, slow paced feel. The land is beautiful, being mostly farming and woodland.


The main part, which is nestled between the Cromarty Firth and the Moray Firth, is easily accessible by regular bus service from Inverness. See Stagecoach services 26, 26A. The narrow roads and limited parking make driving a challenge in the summer months, so it's an ideal place to visit by bus.


One option to experience the Black Isle is as a day trip, stopping at one or more of the places in this guide. We have also included accommodation options in case you decide to have a longer visit.


The places of most interest are the busy town of Fortrose including one of the best places in Britain for viewing dolphins, the attractive village of Rosemarkie with its long sandy beach, and the popular and idyllic historic town of Cromarty. 


The Isle part of the name refers to the its water boundaries of the Cromarty Firth to the north, the Beauly Firth and Moray Firth to the south, and the River Conon and River Beauly to the west.


There are many and varied theories for the Black part of the name, relating to the colour of the land, the Gaelic language, and even claims of black magic being practised.


Note: the villages of Beauly, Muir of Ord and Conon Bridge are also on the Black Isle but not on this bus route. They feel different as they do not have a firth boundary and are to the west of the A9 road. They can be visited by train on the Far North Line and Kyle Line.


Fortrose & Chanonry Point

Fortrose is a busy small town on with an interesting cathedral, a handful of shops and small harbour. Most importantly, it is a short walk from one of the best places in Britain for viewing dolphins. 


On the High Street there are also some very pretty Victorian houses - the ones with painted red woodwork and guttering always make us want to move house immediately!

Fortrose Harbour

Fortrose Harbour

St Andrew's Walk Fortrose

St Andrew's Walk Fortrose

Where to visit


FORTROSE CATHEDRAL


This is an attractive ruined cathedral made of red sandstone. It dates from the 1300s and is set in pleasant grounds, with nice buildings in the surrounding streets. You can be pretty sure of some nice photos here.

Fortrose Cathedral from the west end

Fortrose Cathedral from the west end

Fortrose Cathedral

The grounds are nice to wander round

Fortrose Cathedral interior

Cathedral interior

CHANONRY POINT


The point is around half an hour walk from Fortrose, either along the pleasant path along by the firth or through the golf course.


In this beautiful setting there is a lighthouse, beach and views across the Moray Firth to Fort George, which is a working and historic military fort.


You are likely to find it very busy as it is a popular spot for dolphin watching. They are most likely to appear in the hours after low tide - see Fortrose tide times. We have seen them performing amazing displays.

Dolphin leaping at Chanonry Point

Leaping

Dolphin leaping at Chanonry Point

More leaping

Two dolphins at Chanonry Point

Synchronised swimming

Chanonry Lighthouse

This is still a working lighthouse (automated in 1984)

View from Chanonry Point across the Moray Firth

View across the Moray Firth with Fort George on the right

Accommodation and Places to eat

The Anderson (348 foot/0.1 km from stop 'Fortrose, Union Tavern')

Hotel, smokehouse, whisky bar and pub

Reviews: 4.7 on Google, 4.3 on TripAdvisor


Fortrose Bay Campsite (0.61 miles/0.98 km from stop 'Fortrose, Union Tavern')

Wonderful views over the Moray Firth. There is a Co-op in the village for supplies.

Reviews: 4.7 on Google, 4.7 on TripAdvisor

The Anderson

Reviews including accommodation: 4.7 on Google4.3 on TripAdvisor


Cove Restaurant

Located at the Golf Club, about 20 minutes' walk from the village centre

Reviews: 4.5 on Google, 5.0 on TripAdvisor


IV10 Cafe Bar Deli

Very popular cafe

Reviews: 4.8 on Google, 4.7 on TripAdvisor


Comforts Fish & Chips

Reviews: 4.2 on Google

Rosemarkie

Rosemarkie is technically a separate village from the larger Fortrose, although the two are getting closer as Rosemarkie expands.


It is a pleasant walk between them of about 30 minutes, either along the road by the water or the beach from Chanonry Point in Fortrose. Alternatively you can catch the bus between the two.

Where to visit


ROSEMARKIE BEACH


This long sandy beach is popular for paddling, swimming and walking. It is possible to walk all the way to Chanonry Point in Fortrose, which takes about 30 minutes. The views are wonderful across the bay.

Rosemarkie Beach looking towards Rosemarkie

Looking back at Rosemarkie

Rosemarkie Beach looking towards Chanonry Point

Looking towards Chanonry Point

FAIRY GLEN NATURE RESERVE


This RSPB reserve is a tranquil, steep sided wooded glen with a footpath leading along the stream and up to two waterfalls.

Fairy Glen Rosemarkie

We have lots of pictures of the woods but none of the waterfalls

GROAM HOUSE MUSEUM


The museum's most important collection is its Pictish sculpted stones, connected with the village's early Christian monastery. It also has material about Black Isle history and celtic art.

Accommodation and Places to eat

Tigh Na Mara Guest House (0.16 miles/0.25 km from stop 'Rosemarkie, Spar Shop')

Reviews: 4.7 on Google, 4.7 on TripAdvisor

Crofters

Popular cafe also open early evenings. We have enjoyed loaded fries here!

Reviews: 4.7 on Google, 4.4 on TripAdvisor


The Plough Inn

Charming 17th century drovers' inn

Reviews: 4.5 on Google, 3.9 on TripAdvisor


Rosemarkie Beach Cafe

Reviews: 4.5 on Google, 4.3 on TripAdvisor

Cromarty

Cromarty is a popular and idyllic historic town at the end of the Black Isle, with views over to the industrial ports of Nigg and Invergordon.


There is lots to see and do, including many interesting old buildings, and you could easily spend the day or longer here.

Where to visit


CROMARTY BEACHES


There are two pleasant long sandy beaches, a charming small harbour and a lighthouse. You may also see people from the community rowing club out in their beautiful wooden boat.


The lighthouse was decommissioned in 2006 and is now a Field Station for the University of Aberdeen. The lighthouse lens is on display in the Cromarty Courthouse Museum (see below).

Cromarty Marine Terrace and beach

Marine Terrace and beach

Cromarty Harbour

Cromarty Harbour

Cromarty Beach

Cromarty Beach looking towards the Sutors

Cromarty Lighthouse

Cromarty Lighthouse

HUGH MILLER'S BIRTHPLACE COTTAGE AND MUSEUM


Hugh Miller was an influential local 19th century geologist and writer. You can visit the thatched cottage where he was born and the next door Georgian house which is now a museum. Outside there are also two pleasant gardens including a sundial carved by Millar.


It is run by the National Trust for Scotland, and has regular themed exhibitions and activities in the thatched cottage - we enjoyed visiting for Floral Fantasy when all the rooms were decorated with crafted flowers.

Hugh Miller's Cottage and Museum

Hugh Miller's Cottage and Museum

COURTHOUSE MUSEUM


Next door to Hugh Miller's museum house is the old Courthouse which is also a museum. As the name suggests, this grand building dating from 1773 was once the courthouse and jail.


Today you can find out about its history as a courthouse, including observing a mock case and exploring the cells. It also has exhibitions about the local area including its history as a seaport and home to a notable rope factory.


There is even a small cinema in a converted cell, showing a short film about life in Cromarty in the 1950s and 60s. It is an interesting place to spend an hour or two.

Cromarty Courthouse Museum

Cromarty Courthouse Museum

Mock trial and court at Cromarty Courthouse Museum

The mock trial is very well done

CHURCHES


Cromarty has four churches, only one of which is still in use and three of them you can visit.


East Church on Church Street is no longer in use but is open to visitors and has recently been refurbished. Along the road is St Regulus Church which is still in use and open for visitors. 


Up the hill behind Church Street is the now roofless Gaelic Chapel which was in use for Gaelic services from 1783 to 1918, and for Roman Catholic Polish forces during World War II. It is possible to visit and see how it is gradually being taken over by nature.


Cromarty West Church closed in 2023 and is not possible to visit.

East Church Cromarty

East Church

St Regulus Church Cromarty

St Regulus Church

Gaelic Chapel Cromarty

Gaelic Chapel

ECOVENTURES BOAT TRIPS


Offers two hour wildlife watching trips on a RIB out into the Moray Firth. If you're lucky you may see dolphins as well as other sealife and birdlife.


You will also have lovely scenery and good views of Cromarty as well as Nigg on the opposite shore.

THE SOUTH SUTOR


Situated above the town is this hill with impressive views over to its neighbour North Sutor on the opposite shore, down over Cromarty and beyond to Invergordon in one direction and out to sea in the other direction. The circular walk is around 4 miles in total and is really pleasant.


You will pass coastal views, woods and fields, the attractive converted arts venue The Stables (spot the unicorn!), the historic St Regulus Burial Ground with a scary crypt, an interesting old servants' tunnel leading to Cromarty House (not open to visitors), and the bowling club.

Heron on the beach at Cromarty

Spot the heron!

South Sutor Path Cromarty

Path up the South Sutor

View of Nigg from South Sutor Path Cromarty

View of Nigg and towards Invergordon from the path

View from top of South Sutor Cromarty

View from the top of North Sutor and out to sea

Fields on South Sutor walk Cromarty

Fields and view across to Invergordon

Unicorn outside The Stables Cromarty Arts Trust

Looking for a stable?

Servants tunnel to Cromarty House

Servants' tunnel to Cromarty House

Road near Cromarty Bowling Club

Road near the bowling club

CROMARTY ARTS TRUST


The Trust has two venues in Cromarty, the Old Brewery which often has workshops, exhibitions and events on.


The Stables is a short walk up the hill towards the South Sutor and has a gallery, studios and open air events. Check out their website to see if there's anything on while you're in town.

Old Brewery Cromarty Arts Trust

Old Brewery

The Stables Cromarty Arts Trust

The Stables

CROMARTY CINEMA


This small 35 seater community cinema opened in 2020. It shows a mix of main releases, children's movies and independent films. It is very popular and often sells out so try to book in advance!

CROMARTY - NIGG FERRY


During the summer months it is possible to catch the small ferry across to Nigg. Keep an eye on their Facebook page for up-to-date sailing information.


Sometimes weather or tide conditions mean they stop running during the day, so take enough money for a taxi in case you get stranded, or you can walk the 7 miles to Fearn train station.


The Nigg area is dominated by industrial activity, however, there is a sandy beach and some nice walks.

Renfrew Rose ferry at Cromarty slipway

Renfrew Rose ferry at Cromarty slipway

View from Cromarty to Nigg ferry

Looking back to Cromarty from the ferry

Nigg beach

Nigg beach looking across to South Sutor

View from hill overlooking Nigg

View from hill overlooking Nigg

Accommodation and Places to eat

The Royal Hotel

Reviews including accommodation: 4.4 on Google4.2 on TripAdvisor


The Fishertown Inn

Reviews: 4.7 on Google, 4.6 on TripAdvisor


Sutor Creek

Popular seafood and pizza restaurant 

Reviews: 4.7 on Google, 4.6 on TripAdvisor


Last Splash

Tiny takeaway cafe by the slipway, no website or Facebook page

Reviews: 4.8 on Google

Page last updated 12 October 2025